In short: The Chiesa del Gesù – known in Palermo simply as “Casa Professa” after the adjoining Jesuit house – is one of Sicily’s oldest and most magnificent Jesuit churches and a key work of Sicilian Baroque. Its interior is almost entirely covered in coloured marble inlay (marmi mischi) and stucco. It stands in the heart of the old town, in the Albergheria quarter, right by the Ballarò market. Allow a good half hour for the church; with the oratory and museum it becomes a good hour. Admission to the church is usually free or for a small donation – please check exact times and prices beforehand.
Quick Facts
- Type: Jesuit church, Sicilian High Baroque
- Location: Piazza Casa Professa, Albergheria/Ballarò quarter
- Construction began: from 1564, decoration continued into the 18th century
- Duration: 30–45 min. (up to 1.5 hrs with oratory and museum)
- Admission: church usually free / small donation – check beforehand
- Sundays: services only, no sightseeing visits
- Without a car: very good – walkable from the Quattro Canti
- Combines well with: Ballarò market, old-town walking tour
History
The Jesuits arrived in Palermo in the mid-16th century, and Casa Professa in the Albergheria quarter became their most important base in the city. Construction of the church began from 1564 to designs by the order’s architect Giovanni Tristano, modelled on the Roman mother church Il Gesù: a single, wide nave with a broad transept and deep side chapels – a layout that placed preaching and the solemn Jesuit liturgy at its centre.
While the shell of the building remained relatively plain, the real richness unfolded only in the 17th and 18th centuries. Over generations, stonemasons, sculptors and stucco artists covered the walls with coloured marble inlay and sculpted ornament, until almost every surface was decorated. This made Casa Professa one of the most impressive examples of Sicilian Baroque anywhere.
World War II brought a severe blow: on 9 May 1943 an aerial bomb struck the church, the dome collapsed, and the transept and presbytery were badly damaged; some of the frescoes were lost forever. Over the following decades the church was restored and the dome rebuilt using modern techniques. After extensive work, Casa Professa reopened with great ceremony in 2009.
What You’ll See
The first impression on entering is overwhelming: an interior in which hardly any surface is left undecorated.
- Marmi mischi – the extensive inlay work of multicoloured marble and semi-precious stones is the main draw of the visit. Blossoms, tendrils, vases and figurative scenes are set into the stone so precisely that they look painted.
- Stucco and frescoes – sculpted figures, cherubs and ornaments in white stucco set accents above the colourful walls; the vaults carry ceiling paintings from the heyday of the decoration.
- Dome – today’s dome is a reconstruction following the wartime destruction of 1943, once again closing off the crossing above.
- Oratory and museum – the complex also includes a richly decorated oratory and a small treasury with sacred objects, silverwork and coral pieces. Beneath the church lies a crypt; whether it’s accessible depends on tours and opening hours – check beforehand.
Opening & Admission
The church itself can usually be visited free of charge or for a small donation; admission may be charged for the oratory and treasury. Opening hours vary by season, and on Sundays only services are held. It’s best to check current details shortly before your visit.
| Topic | Details | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Church | usually free or small donation | check times beforehand |
| Opening hours | morning and afternoon, seasonal | summer/winter differ |
| Sunday | services only | no tourist visits |
| Oratory & Museum | small admission possible | limited opening |
Planning Your Visit
Casa Professa combines wonderfully with a stroll through the neighbouring Ballarò market: first through the colourful market bustle of fish, fruit and street-food stalls, then into the church’s hushed Baroque splendour – a contrast that makes the Albergheria quarter special. Allow half an hour for the church, about an hour with the oratory and museum. Dress as you would for any church visit; there are a few steps at the entrance. A rainy day works well here, since the appeal lies almost entirely indoors.
Getting There
The church stands centrally in the old town of Palermo, just a few minutes’ walk from the Quattro Canti and the Ballarò market. The best way to arrive is on foot: the old-town lanes are narrow and largely fall within the limited-traffic zone (ZTL) – don’t drive your own car in, but leave it in a car park at the edge of the old town. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the main train station. Anyone exploring the old town anyway will find Casa Professa almost automatically on the way.
Best Time to Visit
The interior rewards a visit year-round, since the weather outside doesn’t matter. For strolling the surrounding old town, spring and autumn are most pleasant, when Palermo isn’t in the summer heat; the lively Ballarò market has its best atmosphere in the morning. For a general overview, see our piece on Best Time to Visit Sicily, more on the quarter under Mercato di Ballarò, and on the city under Palermo.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is the church called “Casa Professa”?
The name refers to the adjoining Jesuit professed house (Casa Professa), the order’s most important base in Palermo. Colloquially the whole church is named after it; its official name is Chiesa del Gesù.
What is “marmi mischi”?
These are extensive inlays of multicoloured marble and semi-precious stones. In Casa Professa they cover the interior walls almost without a gap, and are considered the high point of this Sicilian Baroque technique.
Was the church destroyed during the war?
On 9 May 1943 an aerial bomb struck the church; the dome collapsed, and the transept and presbytery were badly damaged. The church was restored, the dome rebuilt, and it reopened in 2009.
Does admission cost anything?
The church can usually be visited free of charge or for a small donation; admission may be charged for the oratory and treasury. Since times and prices change, it’s best to check shortly before your visit.
Is Casa Professa near the Ballarò market?
Yes, in the Albergheria quarter right by the Ballarò market. A visit combines ideally with a stroll through the market.
How much time should I allow?
30 to 45 minutes are enough for the church. If you also want to see the oratory and small treasury, allow about an hour.
Discover Palermo’s Old Town
We combine Casa Professa with the Ballarò market, the Cathedral and the Arab-Norman heritage, and book your accommodation at the same time. Just send us a no-obligation travel request.
Sources & Updates
Basis: editorial local knowledge and publicly available information on the Chiesa del Gesù (Casa Professa) in Palermo – including construction beginning in 1564 to designs by Giovanni Tristano, the wartime destruction of the dome on 9 May 1943, and the 2009 reopening. Opening hours, admission, and the accessibility of the oratory, treasury and crypt are time-dependent and should be checked before your visit. As of: 13 July 2026.
