In short: Santa Maria dello Spasimo – known to everyone simply as “Lo Spasimo” – is perhaps Palermo’s most unusual church: begun in 1509, never finished, with a nave that to this day stands open to the sky, without a roof. Trees have grown up inside, and the tall late-Gothic pointed arches frame the blue above. Today the building in the Kalsa quarter is an atmospheric cultural and concert venue – outside of events, admission is usually free. Allow 30 to 45 minutes, more if a concert or exhibition is on.
Quick Facts
- Type: unfinished church (roofless), today a cultural and concert venue
- Location: Kalsa quarter, Via dello Spasimo, Palermo
- Construction began: 1509 (Olivetan monks) – never completed
- Admission: usually free outside events; paid for concerts (check beforehand)
- Duration: 30–45 min., longer with an exhibition or concert
- Without a car: very good – walkable from Piazza Marina / Foro Italico
- Good to know: Raphael’s original “Lo Spasimo” hangs in the Prado in Madrid, not here
History: A Church That Was Never Finished
The foundation stone was laid in 1509, backed by a papal bull of Julius II and on land donated by the jurist Giacomo Basilicò. The builders were the Olivetan monks, who intended to erect a church and monastery here. The building took its name from a famous commission: the monks ordered a painting from Raphael depicting Christ collapsing beneath the cross – “Lo Spasimo di Sicilia”. The painting arrived in Palermo but was sold to the Spanish court in 1622 and now hangs in the Museo del Prado in Madrid.
The church was never completed. As the Ottoman threat grew from 1535 onward, funds went into expanding the city’s fortifications instead of the church – the Spasimo stood right on the vulnerable seaward side. The nave’s vault, built later, collapsed in the 18th century and was never rebuilt. In the centuries that followed, the complex served almost every purpose except worship: as a theatre, as a plague hospital, as a warehouse, and finally as part of a hospital. Restoration only began in the 1980s; since the mid-1990s the Spasimo has been open as an open-air stage and cultural centre, housing a music school and a jazz museum run by the Fondazione The Brass Group.
What You’ll See
The appeal of the place lies in what’s missing: the roof. You enter a tall, long nave of pale stone, at the end of which late-Gothic pointed arches open onto the sky. Over the years, trees have grown inside, stretching their branches upward – an almost surreal image of architecture and nature you’ll rarely find anywhere else. The space looks different with every change of light: clear in the morning, warm and golden in the late afternoon.
- Roofless nave – tall arcades, open sky, vegetation inside.
- Late Gothic with Spanish influences – tracery windows, buttresses, a small dome.
- Marble altar with a reproduction of Raphael’s “Lo Spasimo”.
- A jazz venue – home to the Fondazione The Brass Group, with a music school and jazz museum.
Opening, Admission & Events
The Spasimo is usually freely accessible during the day; you can view the roofless nave without a ticket. It’s only paid for concerts and exhibitions – the respective event prices then apply. Because opening hours and programming vary considerably by season and event, you should check them shortly before your visit. The place is especially beautiful during one of the jazz or classical concerts, when music rings out under the open sky in the roofless nave.
Planning Your Visit
30 to 45 minutes are enough for a simple walk through the nave; with the jazz museum or an exhibition it becomes an hour, and correspondingly longer for a concert. The Spasimo lies in the heart of the old-town Kalsa quarter and combines well with a stroll through the district – for instance with the Palazzo Abatellis, the seafront Foro Italico, or Piazza Marina. Sturdy shoes are useful, as the ground is uneven in places; in rain, the open interior offers no shelter.
Getting There
The Spasimo lies centrally in the Kalsa on Via dello Spasimo. The best way to arrive is on foot – it’s just a few minutes from Piazza Marina, the Foro Italico, or the Palazzo Abatellis. The old town largely falls within the limited-traffic zone (ZTL); if you arrive by car, it’s best to park outside and walk the last stretch. Find out more about the city on our Palermo page.
Best Time to Visit
The open interior makes the Spasimo a place best suited to mild weather. Spring (April to June) and autumn (September, October) are ideal – pleasantly warm, without the height-of-summer heat that’s noticeable in the shadeless nave. In summer, early morning or an evening concert are worthwhile. For a general overview, see our page on Best Time to Visit Sicily.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why doesn’t the church have a roof?
The building, begun in 1509, was never completed because from 1535 onward funds went into the city’s fortifications against the Ottoman threat. The nave’s vault, built later, collapsed in the 18th century and was never rebuilt.
Where does Raphael’s “Lo Spasimo” hang?
In the Museo del Prado in Madrid. The painting was sold to the Spanish court in 1622. On site in Palermo there is only a reproduction on the altar.
Does admission cost anything?
During the day the Spasimo is usually freely accessible. It’s only paid for concerts and exhibitions – check prices beforehand.
Does a tree really grow inside the church?
Yes. Over the years, trees have grown in the roofless nave, their branches reaching toward the open sky – a defining part of the site’s special atmosphere.
What is housed in the Spasimo today?
A cultural and event venue for exhibitions and concerts, along with a music school and a jazz museum run by the Fondazione The Brass Group.
Where is Lo Spasimo and how do I get there?
In the old-town Kalsa quarter (Via dello Spasimo). Best reached on foot from Piazza Marina, the Foro Italico, or the Palazzo Abatellis; the old town is a limited-traffic zone (ZTL).
Experience Palermo’s Kalsa Quarter
We combine Lo Spasimo with the Kalsa, the Palazzo Abatellis and the old town into a coherent programme – with a concert visit on request. Just send us a no-obligation travel request.
Sources & Updates
Basis: editorial local knowledge and publicly available historical information on Santa Maria dello Spasimo (construction history from 1509, the Raphael commission, use as a theatre, plague hospital and warehouse, restoration, and its current role as a cultural centre run by the Fondazione The Brass Group). Opening hours, admission and the events programme are time-dependent and should be checked before your visit. As of: 13 July 2026.
